Ine: where earth protects sea
trip and trail 11.15.2020
In Ine, boat houses called “funaya” float on the water and are reflected in the surface of the water. There’s nothing like it in Japan and I wonder where else in the world you’d be able to see this. This is the reason why Ine suddenly became one of the most popular tourist destinations, and also why I was looking forward to going with my family. Ine is most famous for the boat houses, but the town is actually quite large and comprised mostly of nature. The people here are welcoming to tourists, and mainly focus on experiential tourism, giving visitors a lot of different opportunities to maximize their time in the town. We planned to take an e-bike “farm tour” through the area, experiencing some of the old farmhouses. We also wanted to see the town from the Sea, so we also headed to the Sea of Japan for some sea kayaking.
Taking to the sea to see the earth
To participate in the sea kayaking experience (it starts in the morning), first head to the Ine Tourist Information Center (in the center of the funaya boat house village). We arrived a little early so we took a walk along the seaside streets. I was surprised at how close the surface of the water is to the buildings. The sea breeze ushered in the fresh scent of salt air. The morning sun shone on the surface of the water. That along with the “funaya” floating silently on the calm bay created a beautiful picture.
After making our reservation at the tourist association, we drove to Honjohama beach. Honjohama is the place where the legend of Urashima Taro is said to originate, and that the magical underwater castle that Urashima Taro was taken to in the folk tale is said to exist in the area. The dynamic Rias coastline combines mountains set against the sea with intricate narrow bays.
When we got to the sea kayak rental location, our instructor, Mr. Masuda, had us first change into our sea gear and do some preparatory exercises. He told us that the waves were calm and that the sea was especially clear. It seemed like the perfect day for sea kayaking. He gave us some instructions for using the kayaks and some rowing tips, after which we boarded the kayaks. I helped my daughters into the kayaks and watched them dip their paddles into the water. They glided across the water easily.
Watching the shoreline recede as we rowed out towards the open sea was thrilling. The autumn sea was warmer than I expected, as it had stored the heat of the summer. We followed Mr. Masuda, who told us to aim for the end of the breakwater as we rowed.
After getting used to kayaking across the wide open sea, I finally had time to admire the transparent sea across which we sailed. The water looked as if it was dyed emerald green and you could easily see the bottom of the seafloor from the kayaks. Using a hydroscope (for seeing underwater), my daughter was able to see all of the fish swimming around us. For a while, looking for all different kinds of fish entertained us so much that we forgot we were supposed to be kayaking.
Heading for Ine’s Blue Grotto
Mr. Masuda, after ensuring that we were all used to the movement of the water and familiar with the kayaks, led the way to a cave. Mr. Masuda told us that the sea looked calm and that we would be able to enter Ine’s Blue Grotto.
Compared to the expansiveness of the sea, the Blue Grotto’s mouth yawned wide against the vertical cliff face. Looking up from the surface of the water, we were completely dwarfed by its presence. It was a powerful sight. We slowly entered the cave, adjusting our paddling in order to maneuver the shrinking space. In certain areas inside the cave the light shining into the grotto reflected off of the white-sand seafloor, making the blue seawater appear even darker and more vibrant. The beauty created by nature is breathtaking.
Upon leaving the cave, we were greeted by the morning sun and soft breeze. It felt as though we had returned to the real world. Touring the deep blue cave reminded me of the underwater castle that Urashima Taro traveled to. I felt as if we had made that journey. It was a fantastic experience.
Adjusting once more to the panorama, I became completely at one with the sea, surrounded by magnificent nature. Being out in such overwhelming nature made me feel so much more connected to the earth than when I’m in the city.
As we headed back to Honjohama beach, I couldn’t believe how fast an hour had passed by on the sea kayak tour. We finished and pulled the kayaks to the beach and returned them to the boathouse. We took our time getting changed back into our day clothes. During that time, a member of Kyoto Ocean Road, a company offering E-bike tours in the area, came and delivered the E-bikes for our farm tour. From Honjohama, we were planning to tour several farmhouses and a final place to stop for lunch.
Autumn Farm Tour by E-Bike
The cosmos flowers were in full bloom along the seaside road, which came highly recommended as an excellent cycling road. They contrasted beautifully against the blue sea. We parked our bikes and let the combination of the autumn landscape set against the sea slowly sink into our minds.
While we toured the farms, Mr. Masuda, our continual guide, talked about the history of Ine and various interesting points.
The first location we visited was "Nezumi Sumo Farm," run by Mr. Kawamura, who moved to the area from Kyoto City to start farming in Ine. They grow a lot of Kyoto vegetables, as well as processed beet products. During autumn, mizuna and Fushimi Togarashi peppers are at peak harvest.
Next, we went to "Kawauso Farm." It’s well-known for growing pesticide-free tomatoes. Unfortunately, the tomato harvest season was over. But the owner prepared ice cream for us using ripe tomatoes from the farm (the ice cream is still a work in progress, he told us) for the children. The sweet yet mild acidity of the tomato paired very well with creamy ice cream.
He invited us to harvest rice, something that could only be done during this season. Our girls are the first to enter the rice field. Here, rice is harvested by hand with a sickle, not with machines. He taught my daughters how to use the sickle so they could cut the rice stalks. The weight of rice ears and stalks was surprising, because it looks to light swaying in the breeze. Everyone of us loves mochi, and we learned how the mochi we eat is grown and harvested. The farm owners, Mr. and Mrs. Watanabe were so amazing, we definitely want to come back.
The last stop was Mr. Fujiwara's farm, "Yasaiya Tsuchinoko." Mr. Fujiwara’s farm uses permaculture, a growing method where people respect the earth’s natural cycles and diversity by fostering an environment where vegetables can grow on their own without the use of pesticides or fertilizers. This method only incorporates minimal weeding as well. For that reason, the farm looks a bit wild. The vegetables weren’t lined up in rows like you’d find in supermarkets or conventional farms. And because of this unique farming method, the vegetables here have deep natural flavors. I got a sense that I was tasting the natural world as it was meant to be tasted. Raising vegetables this way is not only the most environmentally sustainable, but I can feel good about my daughters eating them. My girls especially loved this farm because there were goats to play with!
What’s on the menu? Everything local!
We had been exercising since morning so we were all definitely ready for lunch. We chose "Ine no sora GOHAN" in Yunoyama village. The restaurant is run out of a renovated old folk house and has an incredibly cozy atmosphere.
We ordered a variety of food between the four of us. They serve a ‘seasonal vegetable plate lunch’ that uses seasonal vegetables from the Tango area (this area and surrounding area) but mainly focuses on vegetables raised in Ine. We were told that Nezumi Sumo Farm’s mizuna greens were also used for the lunch. We had salad, dishes that were simmered, and fried foods. The dishes are well-thought out in order to bring out the natural flavors of the vegetables and other ingredients. They are cooked and prepared to maximize nutrition as well. The food at Ine no Sora GOHAN helped me rediscover how incredible vegetables can taste.
The mizuna greens from Nezumi Soma Farm were watery and crisp, and completely without bitterness. My daughters can attest to that because they often avoid bitter vegetables, but these were completely different. The rice used in the dishes was grown by the restaurant as well. It made me proud of people who continue to cultivate rice and proud of Japanese people. They also served chicken baked in a homemade marmalade that was bittersweet and really mellow. My wife was particularly impressed with "Carrot leaf and carrot skin tempura.” Little by little the amount of dishes we ordered increased!
We couldn’t resist ordering the fish (caught that morning in the area), as well as the Chinese soba noodles with soup stock made from free range chickens. The broth was excellent. We ordered enough to share among the four of us.
After the meal, we spent some time outside the restaurant taking in the rural scenery. Realizing how fatigued I was from the morning’s exertions, the refreshing autumn breeze felt incredibly soothing as I digested my nourishing lunch. While outside our daughters said hi to an older woman who was passing by. She returned the gesture with a warm smile that made me so happy. The countryside is so full of kind people and I’m glad that my daughters got to experience that.
As our time in Ine came to a close, I wondered what kind of adventure was awaiting us next. Finally, fully regenerated by great food, the sun, and people’s kindness, we make one last stop by the tourist information center to see what else we might find.